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A Brief History of Jewellery Design


Art Nouveau 1890-1910

The Art Nouveau style embraced the mysteries of nature, and celebrated the sensuality of the female form. The ‘whiplash line’ is a common theme running through the era. Much of the jewellery of this age is handmade and very individual. Read more...



Belle Époque 1895-1915

The introduction of platinum revolutionised the industry. Due to it’s strength and hardness, it was now possible to mount diamonds and gemstones in unobtrusive claws, or very minute beaded lines, known as millegrain settings. Advancements were also made in diamond cutting and polishing. New fancy cuts began to appear in English, French and Continental diamond jewellery. Namely the marquise, the pear, the lunette and the round brilliant. Early platinum jewellery is so highly sought after today. Read more...


Edwardian 1901 - 1910

The fashion for rings grew large, diamonds were massive, set up high on fingers with ornate settings. Jewellers developed new techniques with platinum to produce beautiful lace-like detailing. Read more...


Art Deco 1920 - 1935

The Art Deco look is marked by bold architectural shapes in platinum, set with large sparkling diamonds and exotic contrasting coloured gems. The Art Deco style was versatile enough to carry the Oriental, African, and Egyptian influences that designers were pulling in from all over the world. Notably, the discovery of the Egyptian king Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 influenced many of the large Parisian jewellers, leading to designs featuring pyramids, hieroglyphics and scarabs. Read more...


1940s & 1950s Style

Designs were bold and sculptural. The pavé setting was widely used to cover the surface of three-dimensional structures with many identical stones held in position by bead-setting. Hollywood glamour was in full swing. Stars like Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo adorned their Dior and Donna Karan evening gowns with fantastical pieces such as over-sized bejewelled pomegranates, and shell broaches encrusted rubies, citrines and peridot. Read more...