I speak to a lot of buyers who are daunted by the prospect of buying an engagement ring. This is understandable, after all, it’s not an everyday purchase, and very few people have the appropriate experience. Buying new rings is more of an exact science, you’re basically trying to get as much carat for your money. With old rings, you’re looking for something unique and unusual with quality stones, quality craftsmanship, in a style that reflects the period within which it was made. Buying an antique ring is a highly emotional process, and at the end of the day “Do you love it?” is sometimes the most important question.

Lest you let your heart run away with your head, there are a few things to consider when buying an antique or vintage ring:

Gold carat
If the ring is gold, you should ask what the carat is. Most antique rings were made in either 18 or 15 carat.

Stone size
The dealer should be able to tell you the carat weight of the stones. It is likely this will be an estimate as stones need to be taken out of their settings in order to be weighed accurately.

Diamond quality
Enquire about the quality of diamonds; the dealer should be able to give you an estimate on colour and clarity for large diamonds. Smaller diamonds can be difficult to accurately grade depending on their setting. With new rings, it’s all about the quality of the diamonds, because you’re going to want to get the most diamond you can for your money. It doesn’t work like that with vintage and antique pieces. With an old ring, so much more value is in the uniqueness and desirability of the ring as a whole.

Imperfections
Look for chips, internal cloudiness, and marks as these can affect the value of the ring. However, it is worth noting that very few natural stones are imperfection free and in fact the presence of tiny imperfections can be a comforting sign in stones like emeralds, as it is an indicator that they may be natural and not synthetic. A stone that looks too good to be true, probably is.

Repair work
It is important to ask if the ring has been restored at all. Most antique rings have been resized at some point, which is perfectly fine.

If you’re in any doubt, talk to the dealer, and discuss your concerns. A respectable jeweller will look after you, guide you through the process, and offer you some sort of guarantee. Good luck.